Rah, Rah, Rasputin – Expectations of Russia

A few years ago, I decided that I wanted to take the Trans-Siberian railway across Russia. I wanted to go somewhere completely different than my native land, and since I spoke the language somewhat, I could go there without being limited to a tour group. I also felt that I was becoming too timid and insular, and I wanted to do something that would stretch my limits. So, Russia.

Over the years I've read half a dozen Russian books in translation, seen a few Russian films, and read a dozen books on their history and culture. However, in retrospect most of my preconceptions of Russia came from its portrayal in North American culture. Until I got to Russia, I didn't realize how much I had internalized the decades of cold war propaganda.

Here were the main things I expected to find in Russia:

*an educated and literate population
*widespread poverty with a few super-rich enclaves around Moscow
*large, ugly concrete buildings and monuments in major cities
*simple but attractive wooden buildings amidst endless taiga and steppe in Siberia
*a nation of heavy drinkers
*world-class visual and performing arts
*meat-and-potatoes meals; simple foods in large portions
*rude service and uncomfortable accommodations
*an efficient train system but impassable roads
*low prices
*a secretive and undemocratic state
*unfamiliar slang, signage, and body language

My father asked to join me for the trip. He is a frequent traveler, but he had never been to Russia because of the language barrier. Since the country is so unfamiliar, we decided to keep our plans flexible by buying airline tickets to and from Russia but nothing in between. (The first hotel was booked from Canada by e-mail.)

We didn't book any specific activities for ourselves in advance. When we travel, we usually walk around a great deal to get a feel for the place. We also like to see museums and art galleries, and I hoped to see a Russian ballet or symphony and to taste Russian borsht, kvass, and pirozhki. Beyond that, we would seize opportunities as they arose.

Things didn't quite turn out the way we expected...